"Life in Riyadh is quite different from London, but not as different as you might think," a university friend once replied when I curiously interviewed them about what life is like in Saudi Arabia—a country with a notable lack of updated information, particularly in Nordic media outlets. 

Saudi Arabia is a bit of an enigma. Only properly opened to tourism in 2019, this oil-rich Kingdom's public image in the West is often portrayed as an ultra-conservative authoritarian country strictly adhering to Islamic law and mistreatment of women, minorities, and migrant workers. While Saudi Arabia's international brand may raise alarms after sticking to these headlines, conversations with Saudis—whom I've met a lot over the years through academia, business, and private affairs—extremely proud of their country, add more nuances to the vision. They've eagerly encouraged me to visit Saudi Arabia with an open mind and form my own conclusions. So I didn’t hesitate to say yes when the opportunity came along. 

One of the top by-products of being a self-invented Londoner is connecting with people from all sorts of backgrounds from around the world. No book, documentary, or TikTok account can replace the personal insights gained from engaging with people face-to-face beyond closed borders. Through these conversations, the world has become a more approachable and humane place. Once the curtain lifts slightly on the local realities of countries that may seem controversial to us Westerners, concepts like travel boycotts start to feel alienating—we've seen too many negative examples of what international isolation can cause. That said, countries and their people are rarely the same as politics.

When getting to know, particularly Saudi women, I've noticed an intriguing contrast between their public presence and their social media reality. Through private Instagram accounts, I've encountered a world that feels remarkably relatable, not what many may first think when considering the lives of Saudi women based on the international image. I’m aware that my connections, often educated abroad and spending summers in the Mediterranean, are linked to the country's liberal wing. Nevertheless, the message has been clear—the Kingdom is opening, and so should our horizon. 

My first trip finally happened this autumn. It wasn't just a holiday; it was a field trip. My partner's production company opened a Cairo office this autumn to manage their MENA region operations. As a powerhouse with a mega-dynamic economy, Saudi Arabia requires grassroots exploration. Before sending production crews, the producers must personally acquaint themselves with the destination. Trips with a solid professional goal are often the best way to truly understand a country, and I was thrilled to be on board. 

As an openly and proudly part of the LGBTQ+ community, it’s not surprising that our close circle was slightly shocked about our trip to the Kingdom. A quick search on Finnish Google delivers only a few travel-related articles and even more reports about public executions, image-washing, and human rights violations. Given all this, a male couple travelling together to Saudi Arabia might not sound like the most appealing or even safest choice. However, it didn’t hold us back—the region has always been important to us, and it wasn’t our first rodeo exploring destinations where we are not theoretically allowed under current laws.  

As people sent me wild warnings of head chop-offs and threats of imprisonment, a slight fear really took hold of me before the trip. The situation became so tense that I actually started to panic a bit. I deleted all my audiobooks, browsing history, apps, and even our couple photos from social media. I even removed the rainbow sticker from my laptop. I aimed to minimise any risk of being detained at the airport and having my bohemian lifestyle exposed by the eyes of the local authorities. What brought me peace of mind was a colleague travelling with us, who had lived and worked in the country and understood its dynamics better than we did. 

Naturally, after all this, the least we could do was book a hotel room with two single beds. I did consider two separate rooms, but the pragmatist in me reminded me that a bit of moderation was also needed.  

Although I've always been attracted to pushing myself into situations way beyond my comfort zones, Saudi Arabia was still somehow an exception. By the time I lived alone in a remote Brazilian town and worked in a local prison with gang members and other inmates guilty of pretty brutal acts, I thought that I was no longer easily shaken by anything. However, the lack of current information and a certain degree of unpredictability present hit me differently this time. Whereas in many controversial destinations, one can navigate trouble with creative negotiation tactics (bribery, connections, you name it), in Saudi Arabia, I knew there were fewer options if I found myself in trouble. A fear caused by conflict would have been more logical, but when the illegal aspect is me, and us together, the mix of fear and excitement felt abstract. Ultimately, it was better to be 'safe than sorry,' to go 'back into the closet' for the first time since my teenage years, and dive deep into the unknown.  

Recent Years' Legislative Changes

Saudi Arabia has really opened up to tourism in recent years, thanks to the Vision 2030 initiative aimed at diversifying the economy and cutting down on oil dependency. This strategy has led to innovative tourism projects like the development of various new and existing attractions from Jeddah Old Town to the Red Sea and AlUla, offering new e-visas for travellers and modernising society through legislative changes, one step at a time impacting both locals and tourists.

Women's rights, in particular, have been liberated, allowing freedom of movement without a male guardian, driving, and more. Marriage certificates are no longer required, especially in tourist areas. Conservative dress codes have been relaxed, along with the freedom to choose who you spend your time with. These changes are evident in the streets, where it's pretty remarkable to see women and men—alone and together—day and night, casually—with hair and faces covered and uncovered, like in any other country, while still embracing the cultural heritage and values.

Such transformations have boosted Saudi Arabia's appeal as a new emerging hot spot for travel, attracting adventure-seeking and curious off-the-beaten-path-driven travellers. By 2030, Saudi Arabia aims to be one of the world's most attractive tourism and entertainment hubs—an ambitious goal, but thinking big is at the heart of the Saudi mentality.

Despite many changes, Saudi Arabia still remains a conservative country at its core, with restrictions still affecting particularly the rights of the queer community. Although official legislation hasn't changed in this context, there's notable progress at a practical level, especially in large cities and tourist destinations. Just a few years ago, it would have been unimaginable for the country's official tourism website to specifically mention that the LGBTQ+ community is welcome. Whether it's pink-washing or not, this welcome message signals a huge transformation and a shift in attitudes.

My local connections are all very liberal, with social circles that include male couples living together openly. In a conservative society, this remains a taboo kept out of the public eye, but behind the scenes, attitudes are quite accepting as long as public displays of affection remain discreet. 

Ultimately, change rests with the youth, with around 70% of Saudi Arabia's population under 30. This young generation naturally influences the country's social development and the evolution of values and attitudes as it opens up. Families have invested significantly in their children’s international education, with academic studies in the UK, US and Mainland Europe broadening perspectives and liberalising society. These more open attitudes have fled back to their homeland and globalised the culture while staying true to the roots.  

Even the most conservative societies haven't escaped modern-world changes: people are people everywhere. It is also worth remembering that the interpretation of laws at the citizen level often isn't as strict as, for example, in my homeland, Finland, which I often use as my own benchmark, where people might stop at red lights even when no cars are in sight. In Saudi Arabia, things vary drastically depending on who is watching. There's a big difference between public and private actions. 

My perspective on Saudi Arabia is naturally limited to its largest cities, where life has been relatively liberal even before the opening. While many areas still need significant improvement, I view the country's opening up as a positive step, especially for women and minorities. In conservative societies like Saudi Arabia, change requires balance and happens in small steps. It would be naive to expect immediate perfection. Progress depends on open borders and the exchange of influences. And the change over the past five years has been tremendous—if it continues like this, I'm eager to see how it continues to develop. If all this also contributes to creating a more equal society, even with baby steps, that can only be seen as positive progress, right?

Saudi Arabia as a Travel Destination

Saudi Arabia is incredibly unique, culturally rich, and historically fascinating. Mass tourism by non-Muslims is notably absent, offering an authentic and enriching destination filled with natural wonders and chic desert aesthetics. It provides an eye-opening cultural window into a very different world for us Europeans. 

Locals describe Riyadh as Saudi Arabia's New York, focused on long work hours and business, while Jeddah, on the Red Sea, is likened to Los Angeles—more relaxed and cool. AlUla, known as the sister of Jordan's Petra and the crown jewel of Saudi tourism, could be considered the Saudis' Palm Springs—spiritual, upscale, and liberal. It's a magical desert oasis whose energy and tourist scene align with stylish destinations like Uluwatu, Tulum and Santa Teresa especially in terms of aesthetics and crowd. The Red Sea also boasts Umluj and the 'Saudi Maldives,' as well as the future city Neom, still under development, where we're seriously considering retiring if things go as planned.

Field Trip Itinerary

Our trip was scheduled like clockwork, allowing us to explore both Riyadh and AlUla from many angles. Our primary aim was to understand what Saudi Arabia is all about, even a little bit, through a deep dive beneath the surface, talking to people as much as possible, and networking. Our days started early, packed with site visits to hotels, event venues, restaurants, local agencies, and filming locations, along with numerous meetings with local company reps. 

Navigating local policies was another reality, as permits and paperwork required a bit of working around, highlighting the importance of local production. Relaxing by the pool with shisha and 0% beer was only possible on the last day of the trip.

I’m sure I’m not the only one who has noticed that in Europe, work-related activities tend to be scheduled remotely these days, but in Saudi Arabia, it's different. Meetings happen at short notice, and nothing really moves forward unless you are physically present. Friday is also our Sunday, so don’t expect much happening then. Instead, as living in Canary Wharf for a few years has taught me, Thursday is the day of buzz! Fun fact: Many London bankers match their weekend with Middle East weekends, hence Thursdays are extremely busy with suited and booted around our hoods. 

Travel Experiences in Saudi Arabia - Riyadh

Touchdown in Riyadh

Arriving in Riyadh went smoothly. The e-visa, costing around 100 euros, was applied for in advance online, and entry into the country was seamless. Both Uber and Bolt operate, making it convenient to get from point A to point B without pre-arrangements. If you’re uncertain about your status as a minority, it's generally a good shout to stay in internationally known hotels in any country. That's what we did, opting for the safe (and predictable) choice - Radisson Blu. We booked a room with two separate beds and kept a low profile, travelling as business partners, unsure of how to act and not wanting to put our local connections in an awkward position by asking too many questions.

The first three days were coloured by a bit of paranoia. Not wanting to take any risks, we even slept in separate beds for the first time probably ever, and doubts began to creep in. The overall vibe and warnings from our close circle made us so alert that we started seeing oddities everywhere. Did the phone just make a weird rattle noise? Why are they not cleaning our room? Are they watching us through a spycam? Why was there a glaring red evacuation order on the hotel's front door? The hotel also seemed full of armed guards.   

When I enjoyed breakfast surrounded by them after a slightly nightmarish first night, my thoughts were more on the set of the movie Hotel Rwanda than on a feel-good business trip. Later, it turned out they weren't interested in us but were providing security for an international sports equipment conference. Retrospectively, this all seems quite comical now.

Thoughts and Tales from Riyadh

In London, it sometimes feels like everything has already been done, and people are suffering from a collective burnout. In contrast, quickly developing nations like Saudi Arabia are about being hungry, dynamic, and extremely driven. Full of excitement. Starting from arranging meetings, it's much easier to connect with high-level professionals—there's a genuine 'can-do' spirit.

While in Europe, you might need to navigate a process similar to Turkmenistan's visa application just to meet a company director, at the ultra-luxurious Ritz Carlton in Riyadh—favoured by royalty—all we had to do was ask at reception for a hotel tour. Soon, we found ourselves with two beautiful ladies, confidently marching through the opulent banquet halls with their abayas flowing and heels higher than the list of royal weddings celebrated in these extravagant event venues. If only the walls could speak. We even received a personal viewing of the royal suites and the indoor pool area, resembling a palace straight out of Gaga’s G.U.Y music video.

An interesting fact, which made global headlines back in 2017, is that the Ritz Carlton in Riyadh served as a five-star prison for Saudi princes and billionaires targeted in a famous large-scale purge. Who knows, maybe one of the rooms we saw was an infamous cell. Nowadays, the hotel is open to the public, but it was reportedly reserved exclusively for the highest-ranking royal guests in the past.

During the trip, we frequently experienced Saudi hospitality and generosity. Various situations were handled without unnecessary hierarchy, which is precisely what's so charming about the country. Life presents unexpected opportunities where things aren't fully established yet.  

Despite my personal discretion and gradually fading uneasiness, I quickly adapted to the rhythm of Riyadh. Navigating through the day-to-day felt easy as long as public displays of affection were kept hidden and sports shorts were swapped for long trousers apart from the gym, and overall behaviour resembled the modest sophistication and courtesy the country is all about.

The rhythm of Riyadh is typical of the hot MENA region, with the city really coming alive only in the afternoon, around five o'clock. During the day, we worked at the hotel and did some excursions, only to find out that we should do nothing before sunset. Evenings were filled with more dinner meetings and more successful visits to various sights, from Diriyah to the trendy JAX Art District Riyadh has to offer. So remember, there's no point in waking up too early, and dinner should be scheduled as late as possible. The city is also massive, and traffic is endless. The metro is expected to be completed, inshallah, by December, which should offer some relief, but for now, be prepared to spend an hour or two in the back of an Uber, whether you're going a mile or five.

Dinner at the high-end Peruvian-Japanese restaurant Kuuru, located in the King Abdullah Financial District (known KAFD), opened my eyes to the modern similarities between London and Riyadh. From the moment the hostess led us to our table through the bustling restaurant, I completely forgot which country I was in. The atmosphere was international, energetic, and chic. Naturally, I started mentally calculating the combined net worths of the dining parties and quickly understood where all the Rolls Royces and Bentleys in London come from. The ambience was as high as in any Mayfair restaurant—without alcohol, since it can only be legally purchased in Saudi Arabia from a kiosk in the diplomatic area. We powered through with delicious matcha.

One thing I was wondering before the trip was the hugging policy with women and how it would work, especially with people I already know, as public displays of affection aren't accepted in the country. Etiquette forums online recommended waiting for the woman to initiate. When I followed this advice, all went naturally and I received either a warm hug or an elegant handshake, depending on the situation.

Finally, the city really started to grow on me. The more I talked with locals and learned the ins and outs of the city, the more I blended in and adapted.

Everything went smoothly in the end. I realised that the fears had been exaggerated. Still, as old-school as it sounds, it's advisable to maintain a certain CIS presence, and just for my own well-being, I tried to tone down my occasionally flamboyant tendencies. At least I found this approach sufficiently safe.

Riyadh Highlights: Spicy and Diverse Cuisine

Saudi Arabian food is incredibly wholesome and top-quality with a diverse range of flavours. Typical ingredients include rice, wheat, lamb, chicken, yoghurt, and dates, all seasoned with a strong marinade of cumin, cardamom, and saffron, and washed down with mint tea and fresh juices. Dining is a communal experience, with dishes shared among family and friends, and the most authentic experiences happen sitting on the floor. Besides local food, the international restaurant scene was impressive. We enjoyed top-notch dishes from Peruvian-Japanese fusion to Mexican retreat food, craft burgers, pizza, and pasta. The food across the country was astonishingly good, but in Riyadh, dinners were the city's highlight. The city also introduces restaurants by many international top chefs and global institutions, from Gymkhana to Sexy Fish. 

Riyadh is also a great place to explore the cuisines of other Middle Eastern countries, from Iraqi to Syrian and Lebanese, along with their innovative fusion experiments. A special shoutout to these restaurants: Najd Village—a local institution with multiple locations where you can enjoy a traditional Arabian dining experience in a traditional setting, with huge portions. Leila Min Lebnen is a superb Lebanese restaurant in the Diplomatic Quarter. Villa Mamas on the Bujairi Terrace is an excellent atmospheric dinner spot in a historic setting. Lalingia, offering Iraqi delicacies, was recommended by a friend who frequently visits the country. Among cafés, Urth Cafe matcha is a great substitute for bars and is said to be where Cristiano Ronaldo's favourites can be found.

Highlights of Riyadh:

• KAFD, King Abdullah Financial District: Riyadh's Wall Street and Canary Wharf, a futuristic and international financial centre full of excellent restaurants and cafés.
• Jax District: Riyadh's art hub.
• Bujairi Terrace and Diriyah: Bujairi Terrace is a popular open-air restaurant and café complex. It offers spectacular views of Diriyah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the original capital of Saudi Arabia. The atmosphere opens up, especially in the evenings. 
• Ritz Carlton Riyadh: Forbes has named the hotel one of the world's finest five-star establishments. The hotel also has an intriguing history and a fab royal twist. 
• Diplomatic Quarter: International vibe and excellent restaurants. 
• Najd Village: Traditional Saudi food and dining experience at its best. 
• Mandarin Oriental Tower: Stunning views over Riyadh. 
• Via Riyadh shopping mall: Five-star shopping! 
• Souk Al Zal: Who doesn't love bazaars? 

International and Youthful AlUla

Our trip included AlUla in addition to Riyadh. While Riyadh's atmosphere was sometimes demanding, the vibe shifted to a relaxed 180 degrees as soon as we boarded the plane to AlUla. I immediately noticed the stylish crowd—people were as fashion-forward as those on the flight from London City to Ibiza. This might have been influenced by the Azimuth Festival happening in AlUla that weekend, marking the opening of the winter season with performances by international headliners like The Blaze and Ben Böhmer. The vibe was festive, and the crowd was a mix of Sloane meeting Burning Man with a twist of Berlin edge.

AlUla's desert oasis is enriched with natural wonders, like a huge national park, and is a historically significant cultural and natural heritage site in the northwest part of the country. It's known for its stunning landscapes and rich archaeological heritage. In ancient times, AlUla was an important trade route. Today, its most famous attraction is Hegra, also known as the sister of Jordan's Petra, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area boasts impressive sandstone formations, tombs, and ruins that tell the story of the Nabataean civilisation. Nowadays, AlUla is also known for its luxurious hotels, from Banyan Tree to Habitas and Dar Tantora, and incredible swimming pools, often showcased on TikTok and reels for travel enthusiasts. Besides AlUla's serene energy, I was particularly impressed by how the hotels, architecture, and other services are built to respect the area's organic and earthy desert charm, all done with exceptional taste. This makes AlUla a world-class destination, competing with surreal natural sites like Wadi Rum, Cappadocia, and Monument Valley.

Pro tip! The area is huge, so renting a car is a must. We used a Toyota Highlander SUV, which served its purpose perfectly.

AlUla has developed significantly over the last few years, and it's constantly evolving. What we saw on this trip is likely to change by next year. The retreat-like atmosphere defines the entire area's vibe, which is why, in addition to raves and DJ gigs, wellness festivals and retreats are also held here.  

Hotel offerings include yoga, stargazing, outdoor movie experiences, hot air balloon rides, ancient history tours, light shows, meditation, and everything in between, making AlUla a five-star option for wellness and cultural tourism. Detox is easily achievable since alcohol isn't available here either. I'd compare the destination's atmosphere and crowd to a fusion of Shoreditch House, Costa Rica, and Mykonos. 

AlUla is a bit like nature's own amusement park with top-tier service design, from the ExperienceAlula app to free shuttle buses, ensuring a seamless experience. 

AlUla's unique atmosphere also attracts liberal, cool expats from around the world, adding another layer to the otherwise conservative country's soil. One expat who had worked in the area for a long time mentioned during a work meeting that they were planning an “ayahuasca trip to Peru” to rediscover themselves when their work stint ended—sounds like a casual conversation in any free-spirited destination. 

In addition to the youthful crowd, there were also visibly wealthy older British and American tourists who arrived through top-class luxury travel agencies specialising in remote destinations. I checked the website, and it's clear that this isn't a trip for the skint, with the starting price for a ten-day trip at £11,000. 

Azimuth Festival - The Highlight

The Azimuth Festival was an experience in itself. On the surface, it was a desert rave without the usual rave boosters, but that didn't slow down the vibe. I can't deny that a beer would have suited the occasion, but at least I was left with clear memories of the entire experience. 

The most interesting aspect was observing the local youth. Seeing people partying in trendy fits, with and without head-covering scarves, creatively implemented, and openly queer youth dancing to the DJ like at a sober version of Coachella made me forget where I was. The thought that having fun as we know it in the West was, until a few years ago, prohibited under the threat of imprisonment felt absurd while watching the current festivities. I was impressed by how well everything was organised with a clear vision. In addition to the DJ and food, the selection included early morning yoga and midnight bonfires. It was refreshing to see that Gen Z is Gen Z, whether in Seoul or Saudi Arabia.

The dining experiences in AlUla were also top-notch. Save Pink Camel and Somewhere on Google Maps for breakfast and brunch spots. For a traditional candlelit dinner deep in the tales of a thousand and one nights, the restaurant at the Dar Tantora Heritage Hotel is a must. The Habitas Hotel offers fresh international cuisine that perfectly suits the yoga-pilates mindset.

I see AlUla as a potential future travel hotspot if development continues as it is. If it’s your vibe, the area is a perfect destination for a self-directed detox, offering breathtaking landscapes, history, 360-degree top-quality, and a necessary pause for curious and culture-hungry travellers as well as wellness tourists.

The People Are the Core of the Country

One of the highlights of the country is, of course, the Saudis themselves. Known for their incredible hospitality—'Saudi Hospitality' is practically an institution. Saudis are also equipped with grand visions, although execution may often be left to the last minute, which I can definitely relate to. In the country, things are painted with a broad brush. From a business perspective, things happen quickly, whenever it feels best, and a meeting can very well be at 2:00 AM. That's okay, as you quickly get used to the rhythm.  

Saudis mean what they say, for better or worse. They are incredible partners as long as trust is not betrayed. Beauty, clothes, appearance, and fast cars are at the core of the lifestyle, and this becomes clear quickly when wandering through local malls. In everyday life, celebrations, and work, it's good to remember to dress elegantly and modestly and to respect the local culture. While wealth is present, it is not immediately visible in the streets similar to flashier Emirates—you need to dig a bit deeper. I particularly noticed that locals were extremely driven, curious, polite, sophisticated, and had good interpersonal skills. It's important to remember to respect these qualities as well. Interactions with the locals left me with a very positive and cosmopolitan impression while being excited to share about the country, knowing its unique standing.

Saudi Arabia Travel Experience Leaves a Lasting, Positive Impression

The overall feeling I had about Saudi Arabia was especially eye-opening. While I believe we can't ignore and overlook the issues, it's important to see destinations and life on the ground as multi-dimensional as possible, as it broadens our understanding. Like every country in the world, Saudi Arabia is ultimately as diverse as you'd expect from the number of people living there—and naturally, the people here aren't all cut from the same cloth. I find it somewhat black and white that we tend to place the entire country into a certain category based on the laws and structures created by its politics and history. In the end, people are just people everywhere. The news about the entire MENA region is almost exclusively negative at the moment, affecting the view of the entire area, but good progress is also happening—it's not all war and instability. The world is changing, and Saudi Arabia along with it. There's still work to be done, but based on my experience, the direction is ultimately positive and I already plan on coming back. 

I also view Saudi Arabia from a Nordic perspective, shaped by the cultural norms, values, and moral understandings I've learned here, which naturally differ a lot from much of the rest of the world. Of course, we often imagine that our way is the only and right way, but in the end, our viewpoint is Eurocentric and not at all aligned with the rest of the world. An Indonesian or Indian tourist likely wouldn’t find Saudi Arabia's atmosphere nearly as conservative or unusual as we might. This is why it's good to step outside of our own frame of reference and treat each destination through a localised historical culture lens. After these travel experiences, the world feels much more approachable, understandable, and, above all, a more positive place to be and live in. At the same time, you come to realise how small your own way of living really is in the grand scheme of things. 

Discover more stories from Saudi Arabia by following me on Instagram: @otto.lilja